Felicity Cloake’s perfect gougères. Line two baking sheets and, if you’re cooking immediately, heat the oven to 220C (200C fan)/425F/gas 7. Put the water, butter and salt in a medium pan over a medium heat and bring to a simmer, stirring occasionally to help melt the butter. Meanwhile, crack four of the eggs into a jug and beat together.
“As one wine connoisseur put it,” she writes in French Regional Cooking, “‘gougère is not a cheese, though it has that savour; nor a pastry, though it has that appearance. It is the ideal bridge between main course and dessert, allowing the last glass of wine to be enjoyed with delight.’”
You don’t need anything more than salt, but a gougère is improved immeasurably by a good pinch of mustard powder, which Segnit calls the “unsurpassable flavour enhancer” when it comes to cheese.
Can you freeze Gougeres? Freeze unbaked puffs on parchment-lined baking sheets until firm; transfer to resealable freezer containers and return to freezer. To use, place frozen puffs on parchment-lined baking sheets. Top and bake as directed, increasing time by 2-3 minutes.